Isla del Sol Bolivia: A Journey to the Sacred Island
Isla del Sol, or “Island of the Sun,” is a breathtaking destination in the heart of Lake Titicaca, the highest navigable lake in the world (which means: you can go there by boat). Renowned for its stunning landscapes, reminiscent of the Mediterranean, and rich cultural heritage – 3 communities with 3000 inhabitants in total, and a super rich folklore culture, this island also holds profound spiritual significance in Inca mythology. If you’re planning a trip to Bolivia, Isla del Sol should definitely be on your itinerary. Here’s everything you need to know about Isla del Sol.
Getting to Isla del Sol, Bolivia
To reach Isla del Sol, most travelers start from either La Paz or Puno (the largest town on the Peruvian side of the lake). You must pass through the town of Copacabana and get a boat from there.
From Puno (Peru) to Copacabana
Buses run only in the early morning (6:30) and the drive takes around 5 hours, including the boarder crossing. Companies available are Transzella and Tititcaca. We were able to book through our hostel (inca’s rest) the drive for 30 SOL per person, including a taxi that took us from the hostel to the terminal.
In the terminal, you will have to fill the Bolivian immigration form (the bus company will give you a QR code to scan and assist with wifi if you don’t have service). You’ll have to fill your passport and trip details. Once filled, you will get a QR that will be required in the boarder.
The bus has 3 stops:
- Exit Peru – note if you exceed the limit of stay in Peru, you will not be able to pay the fine in the border!
- Enter Bolivia – present the QR you filled at the bus stop.
- Get a Bolivian stamp
The bus driver is stopping and all the passengers from the same bus go as a group, so it’s unlikely you’ll be forgotten 🙂 However, note that if you have issues with immigration, the bus will continue without you.
From La Paz to Copacabana
Buses run frequently from La Paz to Copacabana, taking about 3.5 to 4 hours, from terminal Cemetario, and cost 20 BOB (for a bus; a smaller colectivo vehicle is a bit more expensive — please let us know if you know the price). There is also an option to go with the touristy bus from the central terminal with trans titicaca, but they are more expensive and only run once a day.
At some point, the bus will stop on the lakeshore. All passengers must go out and take a boat (2 BOB) to the other side of the lake, while the bus is going on a large barge. Robin’s mom was here 45 years ago and crossing the lake was just the same – we were wondering why they don’t just build a bridge! Apparently, it’s due to the fact the lake is sacred, and the construction process may result in finding gold or other minerals. Mining them that will ruin the lake.
From Copacabana to Isla del Sol
Once in Copacabana, you can catch a boat to the island, which takes approximately 1 to 2 hours, depending on your destination on the island (north/south). While walking through the main street of Copacabana – avenida 6 de agosto, you’ll come across numerous agencies offering boat tickets to Isla del Sol. A round-trip ticket (available only for same-day returns) costs 50 BOB, while a one-way ticket typically ranges from 25 to 30 BOB (we paid 25 BOB per person).
We couldn’t find a way to purchase a return ticket for a few days later, as we were informed that this option is only available on the island itself. When we finally tried to buy our return tickets on the island, we discovered they cost 40 BOB per person – non-negotiable. We were told that there’s a boat for the locals at 6:00 or 7:00 AM that might be cheaper (20 BOB), but best to check with the ticket kiosk on the island a day before you want to return to Copacabana.
Where to Stay – North or South Part in Isla del Sol?
There are two main ports on Isla del Sol: Nord and Sur. In the north lives the Cha’llapampa community; in the center lives Cha’lla; and on the south the largest “town” belongs to Yumani community. There are no roads or cars on the island, and it’s sometimes steep; see our tips about packing.
In general, tourism in the southern side is more developed – more hostels and restaurants. However, the northern port is closer to key attractions like the Inca ruins and scenic viewpoints. It is more remote and is therefore more relaxed.
If you already know us, you know we chose to stay in the northern part 🙂 We stayed in hostal mirador which had a room with a private toilet for 100 BOB (50 per person). There are quite a few accommodation options so we didn’t order anything in advance and just wandered around and asked about kitchen facilities (we ended up cooking with our hiking stove; check here for more details). We also heard there is an option to camp on the beach (free of charge), and at times a nice community of hippies gather there (in August, when we were there, we didn’t see any tents).
North-south conflict (solved in 2022)
From 2017 to 2022, there was a north-south conflict: and tourists were unable to pass to the north side – neither by foot nor by boat, which meant many of the interesting sites were not accessible. The origin of the conflict was the topic of profits from tourism, not equally divided between 2 of the island’s communities. In March 2017, a hostel was built by the Cha’lla (middle island inhabitants) in proximity to a sacred archaeological site on the north end of the island. The inhabitants of Cha’llapampa (north) blew up the building with dynamite! Cha’lla responded by blockading access to Cha’llapampa by both land and water. The conflict was sometimes violent, with burned houses and injuries and a mysterious death of a Korean traveler who tried to cross into the blocked area. The conflict is now (August 2024) solved and both sides of the island are open for tourism safely.
Exploring Isla del Sol Bolivia
Hiking Trails and Inca Ruins
Isla del Sol is rich in archaeological sites. The most notable are the Pilko Kaina ruins and the Chincana ruins. Legends say that this is the very place where the first Inca, Manco Capac, and his sister-wife Mama Ocllo emerged from the waters of Lake Titicaca to found the Inca Empire. The entrance to the trail of the ruins is 15 BOB – keep the ticket after purchase in case you are asked for it again.
We hiked the popular trek from the northern port’s village Challapampa (where our hostel was) to the Ruinas Chincana (15 BOB admission per person for the camino). There is an option to do a round trip or take the boat between both sides of the island and hike back (if you know the cost, please let us know).
Along the way, you’ll encounter breathtaking views of the waters of Lake Titicaca, beautiful peaks and landscape forms emerging from the lake, and even see the snowcapped peaks of the Cordillera Real near La Paz on the horizon. Tip: Continue a bit more from the ruins to Mirador Cerro Tikani (search in the Mapy.cz app), where you can take in an even more panoramic view of the island.
Don’t forget to watch the sunset!
Tips for Your Visit to Isla del Sol Bolivia
- Pack light: due to the sacredness of the island, no vehicles are allowed there, so you will have to hike to your accommodation on foot. We suggest leaving the big backpack in Copacabana and take only what you need for the night (we left ours for 10 BOB each for unlimited time, in one of the hostels on avenida 6 de agosto).
- What to bring? Warm clothes, hiking clothes, sunblock. Supplies like water, snacks, and even fruit and veggies are available on both sides of the island but are more expensive than in Copacabana.
- Where can I eat? there are a few restaurants available on each side of the island, offering sandwiches, omelets and the typical rice-and-trucha (trout from the lake, not native but very common) for dinner. We didn’t eat there, so not sure about other vegetarian options.
- Stay Overnight: While a day trip is possible, staying overnight allows you to experience the island’s tranquility after the day-trippers leave. There are several hostels and guesthouses available. In classic “una noche más”-spirit, we stayed for 3 nights and might have even extended more if we didn’t have to get to Cochabamba for a meditation course.
- Altitude Awareness: Isla del Sol is located at a high altitude, so take it easy when you arrive. Stay hydrated and allow your body to acclimatize. Many travelers underestimate the effects of altitude sickness, so consider taking it slow and enjoying the local scenery.
- Cash is King: Bring cash, as ATMs are not available on the island, and many places may not accept cards. It’s best to have some Bolivianos handy for meals and local purchases. The local markets in Yumani offer fresh produce and handmade crafts, allowing you to support the community.
